010: Behind The Scenes: Anushka Menon on Photography, Forging an Unprecedented Career and Retaining Artistic Individuality

⌛ 5 MINUTES

Anushka Menon, he fiery photographer behind iconic fashion images of the likes of Dove, Rolex and Puma, is pretty much the poster child for non-conformity. A candid discussion with the acclaimed artist has us following in her footsteps as she retraces her journey to becoming one of India’s eminent fashion photographers, its most eclectic artists and its most exciting potentials. Her story takes us from Australia — through dark rooms and male-dominated sets — to the Anushka of today, a musician, a mentor and as ever, a true magician behind the lens.

Country Roads: The Search for an Aesthetic

Anushka attributes her early independence to her family situation; her parents were separated and then she lost her father at the tender age of 15. Subsequently moving from Muscat to Australia to pursue a foundation course in design, photography and illustration at RMIT, Menon unexpectedly developed a liking for photography and embraced the mystique of the darkroom.

A two-year photography course in India followed. A people-person at heart, Anushka found herself moving from landscapes, interiors and products to portraits, magazines, fashion, which led to ads and related commercial work. Not a big fan of heavy post-processing, Anushka has more of a “what you see is what you get” approach.

Of her major influences early on, Menon cites David Lachapelle (whose loud provocative work she tried to recreate but didn’t have the means to then), Annie Leibovitz, Marcus Marter and Daniella Midenge. “They’re all so iconic,” she gushes. “Their style, their brand, themselves — the whole package.” Outside of photography, her artistic friends are her biggest inspiration. “They inspire me with ideas but mostly to push myself.”

Only Woman in the Madding Crowd

Anushka got her first paid job at 20 and was the first Indian female photographer in fashion and styling — an accomplishment in and of itself. Being a trailblazer had its advantages but also invited scepticism regarding her identity and skill. Having to communicate in Hindi with the staff on set didn’t help, either. But Anushka Menon is nothing if not persistent. “It took five years to really get noticed, and 8–9 years before I started feeling like ‘okay, I’ve arrived, I’m in a good place’ and then my work and income started escalating.” She didn’t have a guide, nor has she ever assisted anyone, both industry anomalies — despite which things turned out pretty good, if you ask us.

When it comes to the industry’s oeuvre, she says, “India doesn’t work on the standard rate. Quantity trumps quality; it’s about who is cheaper not who is the best [for the job].” She compromised often early on but is now quick to turn down unfair jobs. Over time, she has lost projects to fresher, cheaper talent so she stresses on honing connections to ensure stability in work. In her field, the hustle and flux never end.

Anushka feels she cleared a definite corner in her career when big campaigns finally began to knock at her door. A very special one was Rolex in 2013 — her first big, international client. Bigwigs like Puma, Samsung, GQ and Vogue have also joined the “Menon Club” over time. Apart from this sure proof of success, Anushka feels deeply validated when people identify with her work beyond its intended reach, for she feels that that’s when real growth happens. Despite the many accolades she’s won — Fashion Photographer of the Year, Marie Claire, the HT Style award and most recently, Asian Photographer of the Year 2020 — she firmly believes that awards aren’t the sole measure of skill or talent. Big money and bigger brands may be a personal achievement but spiritual joys, such as travelling whilst working, are enriching experiences she looks forward to.

For Menon, the turning point wasn’t one particular job, payment, or award, but a collation of all — a gestalt. Perhaps this is why each of her works is fresh; her concepts are nothing short of meteoric and each piece can stand alone as well as be recognised as quintessentially hers.

And what is ‘hers’?

Menon, after continuous experimentation, has now settled into her signature style and describes it as minimalistic, yet bold and women-centric. She likes a sharp, clean aesthetic, even in life. “I’m very black and white. My shoots are minimal and styling is simple unless the project calls for something over the top,” which is when she makes the best of both worlds to enhance the piece completely.

Walking the Talk

Rarely does Menon come across commercial work that looks pleasing, authentic and harmonious enough to wow viewers as a whole. Process and material of projects depend on the brand; some give free reign, else she surgically extracts from briefs to work on precise dockets. This way, stricter visuals are enhanced and replicated. She treats artists on set as equals in solo work, dominating only the visual treatment.

Menon and Holland’s Rituals Cosmetics are “an aesthetic match made in heaven. We share a trust and comfort that is euphoric.” 

On the other end of the spectrum, Anushka doesn’t avoid challenges, finding collaborative inspiration satisfying. Talking about handling tantrums and “conquering” Fuji, she says, focussed professionals trump those with ego trips and facades. Working with a variety of people is still enjoyable; Menon also guides freshers readily and is modest about her own limitations. “I can be a pain in the butt to work with too. Even as a model. I know what I like and who I am, my body, my angles. One must be open to my advice.”

Menon has been with Fuji for more than two years. She likes teaching and Japanese technology so Fuji’s innovation and workshops are a great fit. “My job is to educate, try new products, shoot and attend important events.” Giving demos and lectures has led to teaching highly interactive photography workshops in 2013 and nowadays, even showcasing.

Menon has some sound insight for both students and freshers. Style is key, she says. Not just what but how you shoot and incorporate your vision into a photograph can make it sing. Understanding fashion is integral; strong foundations create a soft landing for experimentation. Add to this, formulating a good team. Everything else comes with experience. “You can’t jump to where I am. Instead of calling up Dove when you’re just starting out, take your time to identify a clientele, build a portfolio and then approach target clients.” Do your homework, test, email, cold call, make connections, live as a freelancer. You have to invest before chasing after returns.

Anushka, the Renaissance Woman

Menon started making music in 2013, began DJing soon after and released her first track in 2019. These months currently spell fresh music, remixes and a new music video. She loves the process of making and sharing, preferring to play bass, techno and breakbeats. “I enjoy making people dance,” she says happily. Her influences were country, western and mainstream which were always on in her parents’ house, before hip-hop dominated her teenage years. Australia gave her electro and trance; India, an auditory explosion. “I’m a chameleon. Over time I’ve become more stubborn but I’ve always been versatile. My interests allow me to explore. Each one inspires and complements the other.”

Teaching yoga, making music, working and staying healthy and sane during the pandemic are her latest endeavours. All the alone time has given her the chance to experiment with self-portraits as well. A less rigid and more mindful sense of time management is tempered by health limitations but she’s glad she’s “a go-getter and good at picking myself up after a fall.” Being Anushka has meant consistent self-improvement and she works out the chinks in her armour over time, so to speak. In hindsight, she only wonders if she could go back 10 years and do things a bit faster.

Anushka’s tattoos complete the picture we have assimilated so far...she has been acquiring tattoos since 2001 and has a collection of 18 on her body’s canvas. “The owl on my chest represents feminism, the night, the quiet, and looking inwards.” Another is a masterpiece by Saira Hunjan. Menon’s tattoos all have deep symbolic meanings.”... A lotus in a pond comes out of nothing. The moon is constantly evolving, the arrow is always forward-thinking.” And we are happily looking forward to more ingenuity from her.

As we reach the end of the episode, we sign off with some rapid 🔥 questions. Get the popcorn and start reading!